We arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos, on Monday December 5th and spent six days in this interesting little place. On Wednesday we set our alarm for 5 am in order to get up and watch Tak Bat take place. Tak Bat happens here every day at dawn when Monks slowly parade barefoot through the streets and people place balls of sticky rice in their bowls.
It is a quaint, peaceful ceremony and one that is really worth experiencing. Monks demonstrate their vows of humility and residents take part in the act of respectful generosity.
After Tak Bat that morning we climbed Phu Si Mountain which is in the centre of the old town. It was a nice little climb and from the summit we were rewarded with a great view of the area.
In the afternoon we visited Wat Xiang Thong which is known as Luang Prabang's most famous monastery. The most memorable aspect of this temple for me was the very detailed glass mosaic depicting local village life.
By this time we were pretty well done for the day and were more than ready for Utopia. Utopia is a backpacker hangout we had read about in Lonely Planet. It is located right next to the Nam Khan River and is decked out with recliner cushions, low tables and a sea of candles after the sun sets. It is the type of place that is hard to leave; however, after a few hours we finally did.
On Thursday, we visited the former Lao Royal Palace which is now a museum. It was built in 1904 and was the residence of King Sisavang Vong and his family. The palace contained various treasures and gifts from foreign countries including a very simple looking dinner plate from the Canadian government.
Many of the rooms have been preserved much as they were when the royal family was removed. It was interesting to see how this family lived and it sparked some interest in me about what eventually happened to them. What I learned did not have a happy ending.
After the Kings death in 1959, his son Savang Vatthana ruled until his forced abdication in 1975, when the new regime took power. This ended 650 years of Lao Monarchy.
At that time the Royal family was sent to a work camp where they were forced into hard labour. Little is known about what happened to the former King; however, it is believed by many that he died sometime between 1979 and 1984, most likely of malaria.
On Friday, we took a day trip to Tat Kuang Si. This park contains walking trails, beautiful tiered waterfalls and aqua blue pools.
After a little hike up the hill it felt great to cool off by taking a dip under the falls.
On Saturday, we took a small boat accross the Mekong River. From one of our riverside hangouts we had noticed boats going back and forth and thought we'd give the 60 cent trip a try. Once the long narrow boat was full we were off to Muang Chomphet which had a very different village atmosphere.
In this small dirt road area we still saw the scattered tourist; however, we were mostly among locals here as we wandered around small raised huts and tiny wooden Wats.
On Sunday December 11th we Left Luang Prabang at about 7:30 am. We had decided on the Shompoo Cruise company to take us up the Mekong River to Huay Sai.
We chose them because they offered a mid range price alternative to both the expensive luxury cruise companies and the dirt cheap, notoriously uncomfortable slow boats that do the run. It turned out we made the right choice and really enjoyed a couple of very comfortable, relaxing days on the river.
The Mekong River is the lifeblood of Southeast Asia. It flows through six countries: China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.
For two days we sat back and watched it all go by as we passed traditional villages, experienced glorious sunsets, and learned a little about activities and life along this amazing river.
Along the way we stopped at a Buddhist temple called Pak Ou which is actually located in a cave. Although the cave temple was interesting, meeting a foot long centipede on the path was likely more memorable for us. Considering his apearance and size we opted to give him some space.
We also visited a Khmu village. The Khmu are an ethnic minority in Laos. They are recognized as the original inhabitants of Laos and they have, for the most part, maintained their traditional cashless lifestyle. They survive on subsistence agriculture supplemented by hunting and fishing.
The Khmu believe in animism, the idea that objects such as the home and nature, have spirits. The absence of a written language has resulted in a very rich oral language. The Khmu are well known for their tales and stories.
The village we visted was located in the jungle, a short climb up a hill from the river. The houses were made from bamboo with thatched roofs where grandparents, parents, and children all live together.
We spent one night in the small riverside village of Pak Baeng and then continued on to Huay Sai where we spent one last night on the Lao side of the border.
Although we were glad to move on to Thailand, we were certainly in no rush to leave Laos. During our time here we were continously amazed by the kindness of the people and low cost of almost everything.
We were easily able to find comfortable accommodations for about $20.00 per night and all you can eat buffets on the street for less than $2.00.
Laos is one of the least developed countries in South East Asia, with more than 75% of its people living on less than $2.00 a day; yet, the people seem content, are incredibly friendly and always seem to be smiling.
I read somewhere this laid back Lao-ness is defined by their Buddhists' beliefs. They believe that too much work is bad for your health and too much thinking is bad for your brain. I'm not sure if the people really believe this or not but without much in material wealth they certainly seem to have something that keeps them smiling.
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