Tibet is not an easy place to visit. The only way to enter this special administrative zone is with a group tour. It takes time, planning and a great deal of patience to arrange a trip. There is tedious paperwork involved in obtaining the permit that goes along with the Chinese visa to enter this unique region.
On Monday, April 17th, as we checked in at the airport in Kathmandu we were informed that our flight would be delayed. We were told the Indian Prime Minister was coming and the airport would be completely shut down for everyone else during his arrival time. By now we were getting very used to delayed flights; however, being told the reason why was a new unexpected novelty for us.
Our Sichuan Airlines flight was originally scheduled to leave at 11:00 am. The flight finally left Kathmandu shortly after 1:00 pm. The flight north over the Himalayas offered some stunning views; however, it felt like we were in a state of severe turbulence for the whole hour and fifteen minutes that we were in the air.
As we clung to our arm rests and looked out the window I couldn't help but think about the movie "Alive." With clouds below us and mountain peaks next to us, all the memories and scenes from that film came back to me. I later learned that the Kathmandu to Lhasa flight is normally quite rough and our trip was likely nothing out of the ordinary. We landed safely in Lhasa at 4:30 pm local time.
It was hard to believe we were only about 600 km from Kathmandu. The airport was new and modern and everything looked clean and fresh. With its Chinese structure, order and strict immigration procedures, it felt like we were a world away.
Upon arrival at Lhasa Gonggar Airport we completed the stringent immigration procedures. We were met by our Tibet Vista representative, given our white silk, 'Welcome to Tibet' scarves and taken to our hotel. We were now 3656m above sea level and here we were in Lhasa, Tibet!
Although we were only a short distance from Katmandu, we were now two hours and fifteen minutes ahead of Nepal time. Even though China is a country similar in size to that of the United States, it only has one time zone. It is a time zone that seems appropriate in cities like Beijing and Shanghai; however, in the western city of Lhasa it made for some very light evenings and very dark mornings.
The next morning, we got to know our local guide, who would be spending the next week with us. TJ, was a young likeable guy with a good sense of humour. Although he worked for the Chinese operated Tibet Vista tour company, he was Tibetan and there were times when his Tibetan views came through crystal clear.
That first morning, we were taken to the Drepung Monastery. This monastery was founded in 1416 and is located on the outskirts of Lhasa. We were told by TJ it was once Tibet's largest and most influential monastery. At one point it was home to over 10,000 monks. These days, that number is only about 700; however, it still attracts pilgrims and visitors from around the world.
As we toured the monastery we learned a little about government policies that were put in place during the cultural revolution. Along with trying to modernize Tibet, the Chinese government also imposed numerous policies regarding culture, religion and language. Along with these restrictions, a rule has been imposed that limits the number of monks allowed at each monastery.
In the afternoon we were taken to the Sera Monastery which also sits on the outskirts of Lhasa. At one time it had a population of over 5000 monks, but now houses only a few hundred.
The most fascinating thing about the Sera Monastery for me was the giant courtyard used for debates. Here the monks hold these lively events each day. During this time the area becomes a sea of burgundy robes and you can hear the rowdy religious ruckus as you approach the area.
Monks test one another by firing questions at each other in rapid succession. It's amazing to watch how passionate and intense these debates become. Although we had no idea what theological wisdom was being exchanged we watched the arguments play out with great enthusiasm, with one monk often pointing at the other and loudly clapping his hands together to hammer home his point.
We learned that in many cases these verbal exchanges were actually teachers testing their students. As is the tradition, monks must remember everything by heart. Notes are not written down and Buddhist scriptures are always memorized. Young monks have their knowledge tested verbally in this manner to demonstrate what they have remembered.
The next day, Wednesday, April 19th, we went to Potala Palace. Perched upon a hill in the middle of town, it is easily the most recognizable structure in all of Tibet. When watching the news and one hears, "from Lhasa, Tibet this... is CNN," Potala Palace is the building in the background.
This famous palace has been the residence of the Dalai Lama since the 7th century until the current Dalai Lama went into exile during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site.
The building symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the administration of Tibet. It was both interesting and strange to walk through such a historic building and the private living quarters of a man who hasn't been allowed to return in so many years.
In the afternoon we went to Jokhang Temple which means ‘House of the Lord.' This temple was originally built in 647 AD to house a sacred image of the Buddha. This statue is still enshrined within the temple and is considered the holiest object in Tibet.
Although we didn't know where we were, we actually stumbled upon this area during our first evening in Lhasa. After checking into our hotel, we went out to explore a bit on our own and just happened to walk into the spiritual centre of Tibet.
We saw many people walking, chanting and praying. We also noticed everyone moving past us in the same direction. We figured out that they were circling the area in a clockwise manner, always keeping the temple to their right. As we walked into the crowd we couldn't help but join the flow of people shuffling along, chanting and spinning prayer wheels.
As we moved along we saw people kneeling and some pushing their bodies along the ground, using wooden blocks to protect their hands. Many rubbed their heads along the cobblestones while murmuring sacred prayers and wishes.
It was overwhelming to see the spirit and devotion that still exists here especially considering the recent history in Tibet and what it has been up against.
As we walked along in both amazement and awe, I thought how grateful I was to be in this unique place and witness such a sight. I felt great admiration for these people, that against all odds have managed to maintain their traditional way of life. Tibet may not be an easy place to visit; however, as we've learned, the most rewarding places never are.
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